Evergreen trees and shrubs

September is an excellent time to plant young evergreen trees and shrubs. If you have evergreen trees or shrubs on your property that have not recovered fully from winter desiccation, have been damaged by drought or have otherwise become unattractive, you probably should consider replacing them. If you’re looking for ways to add winter color or otherwise enhance your landscape, consider adding some pine, spruce or fir trees.

Don’t feel compelled to plant the largest specimens you can find. Small evergreens will transplant more easily and generally “take off” faster after transplanting. It is well to note that evergreens do not transplant well bare root, and should be purchased as container- grown or balled-and-burlapped stock. If you are going to attempt to move an evergreen by hand, water it well so that the soil clings to the roots, dig it carefully and slide it onto a tarp and carefully slide it over to the new hole.

There are some definite advantages to planting evergreens at this time of the year. The new, tender growth that developed in May and June is mature now and less vulnerable to transplant stress. The longer, cooler nights and slowly declining daytime temperatures mean reduced moisture loss through the needles which, in turn, create less demand on the plant’s limited root system. In addition, there is usually ample rainfall in autumn.

Evergreens also benefit from the warmer soil temperatures that allow the plants to become established before winter. Because evergreens retain their needles throughout the winter, it is critical that they be planted early enough in the season so that their roots begin to function before the soil freezes.

Another advantage you shouldn’t overlook is that most nurseries offer a fine selection of trees and shrubs, including evergreens, at discounted prices this time of year.

After planting the evergreens, spread three or four inches of an organic mulch like shredded bark or wood chips over the root area. This prevents the soil from freezing as early as it would otherwise, and also protects the roots from autumn’s fluctuating temperatures. Spread the mulch over the root area as far as the branches reach or even a little further, but don’t place the mulch directly against the trunk. Pull mulch away from the trunk an inch or two to promote good air circulation which prevents bark rot.

Watering is certainly important, but bear in mind that the combination of cooler temperatures and more frequent rains in autumn should reduce the need for regular watering. However, any time we go a week without good rainfall, give the root ball and the area around it a thorough soaking. Because evergreens continue to lose moisture through their needles year-round, it’s very important that you continue to water them right up until the time the ground freezes. Don’t make the mistake of watering every day or two as this can saturate the soil and cause root rot, especially in clay soil. Do not fertilize evergreens at planting time. In fact, do not fertilize them until they have become established, which may be the second year after planting and then do not fertilize them after June 1.

Deciduous trees and shrubs may be planted in September, but they can also be planted after they’ve gone dormant and have lost their leaves. If you are going to move or transplant a deciduous tree bare-root, it is much better to wait until the tree or woody shrub has lost its leaves. Because they lose their leaves, it is not as important that the roots are established and functioning before winter. Like evergreens, it is important to mulch the soil over the root ball area to prevent the soil from freezing a little longer.