Early on June 28, the S.S. Universe Explorer dropped anchor in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky (PK), Russia, the capital of the Kamchatka peninsula. The peninsula is about the size of Japan, and lies within the Pacific Ring of Fire with a total of 160 volcanoes (29 of which are active). PK is an isolated and rarely visited area of Russia and our presence did not go unnoticed. Until less than 20 years ago, visitors were not even allowed. We arrived at the city on the day of its yearly festival. After speaking with some Russians we found out our arrival was advertised on the radio. The young people were the most enthusiastic about our presence. They mobbed us, asking for our signatures and practicing their English. on us. We had three days in PK. The first day I decided to simply wander around the city. I exchanged my dollars into rubles and was on my way. On an afternoon walk I saw remnants of communism in the area – PK has yet to recover from the fall of the Soviet Union. Money distribution is far from equally divided. The money is broken down with 70 percent going to Moscow, 15 percent to St. Petersburg, while the remaining 15 percent is spread across the rest of Russia. The cityscape is covered with large concrete apartment complexes made from volcanic cinder. These complexes are owned by the government and nobody bothers with maintenance. The buildings are run down, much like housing projects in the States. Despite outward appearances, individual apartments are often immaculate; they are the one space in which Russians have ownership. During my walk, I stopped by the festival and the local market. I’ve always heard vodka called “Russian water” but I didn’t believe it until I saw it. Sharing vodka is a sign of friendship in the Russian culture and there was a lot of sharing going on that day. Later that evening, I enjoyed a Russian dinner concert and traditional food. The children’s theater interpreted Russian culture through song and dance. During the show we ate caviar and crab along with borsh, a soup made from beets and cabbage. I had the opportunity to visit a dacha on my second day in Russia. Much of the people of PK escape to dachas (or cabins) on weekends and holidays. These modest buildings are surrounded by beautiful gardens where vegetables are raised for family and friends. The property also includes a banya (steam bath) and a greenhouse. I enjoyed a Russian tea with a couple and their granddaughter. That evening I visited the home of a Russian bard (folk musician). Not only a talented musician, he was also an inventive cook. The bard created meals of edible wild plants and smoked salmon. Once there, my group was invited into his chume (teepee) where he entertained us with music, fed us delicious food and made a vodka toast around a campfire. After enjoying the city, food and culture, I was excited to see the beautiful surrounding countryside. On my third and final day, I hiked up the Vilyuchik Volcano and saw a waterfall tumbling down from the crater. As a true Minnesotan, I took the opportunity to slide down the snow field below the crater. The view was incredible as I rode through one of the largest geothermal fields in the world. After a picnic lunch, we had the chance to stop for a relaxing dip in one of the many geothermal pools in the PK area. We finally returned to the ship where I watched PK disappear into a wall of mist. It’s “good bye Russia” today and “hello Japan” next week. Samara Mackereth, a senior at UMD, is participating in the University of Pittsburgh’s Semester at Sea program. She will travel from Vancouver, Canada to Alaska, Russia, Japan, Australia, New Zealand, Fiji and Hawaii.
