I made my way to the deck early on the morning of August 28, to watch the sun come up over Auckland, New Zealand. The ship docked among all the skyscrapers and activity of the city center. New Zealand’s total land area is approximately the size of Colorado. It is surrounded by the Tasman Sea on the west and the Pacific on the east. Thirty percent of the country’s four million people live in the city of Auckland. New Zealanders are often referred to as “Kiwis.” I had a bird’s-eye view of the city during my first dinner in Auckland. Some friends and I enjoyed the rotating restaurant on the top of the Sky Tower. The tower stands nearly 450 feet above the city. Our meal was elegant and delicious. In New Zealand you cannot escape the thrill-seeking attitude of the Kiwis anywhere you go. Bungee-jumping or repelling off of the Sky Tower is common practice among both tourists and locals. New Zealanders have found many creative ways to risk their lives: bridge climbing, abseiling and sky-diving. You name it, they jump off of it. These extreme sports are appropriate, as Auckland is the birthplace of the bungee jump in 1986. I couldn’t resist the temptation to take a few risks myself. I did not head for the sky, but rather went in the opposite direction – underground. Along with some Kiwi adrenaline junkies, I crawled into a small opening in the ground that led to the Waitomo caves. Dressed in full wetsuits, harnesses, rubber boots and helmets we abseiled (repelled) down various underground waterfalls. When my turn came to do my first abseil, I found myself hanging 70 feet above solid ground, left to my own devices to let myself down by repelling off of the steep rock walls. At this point I was really wishing I would have paid more attention when we were practicing on a tree outside. It was too late to turn back, so I took a deep breath and allowed myself to start dropping. The uneasiness wore away instantly as my adrenaline told me to move faster and farther down. I felt a sense of victory the rest of the day, like I had released my super-human stunt-double abilities (giving myself WAY too much credit). For the next four hours we followed the flowing water through small crevices, crawling-room only at times. The holes would open into huge caves of dripping rocks. It was in these caves that we turned off our headlights and enjoyed the sparkling lights on the ceiling. These “lights” are actually the larva of the two-winged insect, the glowworm, that is unique to New Zealand. They glowed like neon green stars across the dark cave walls. We continued repelling down three more waterfalls until we found ourselves 350 feet underground. From here, we could only go up. I put my amateur rock- climbing abilities into action and made my way to the earth’s surface again. When I made my way into the sunlight, my entire body had turned to jelly. I was exhausted and ecstatic. It was definitely one of the high points of my trip to this point. In the evening I enjoyed a traditional meal at the home of an Auckland native. Roasted lamb with a tangy mint dish and vegetables, with kiwi cream pie for dessert, all topped off with local wine. Although this was a traditional meal, there is a strong native Maori population. Eighty percent of the population is New Zealand Europeans, only 15 percent is Maori. The Maori culture is strongly connected to the earth and is extremely ceremonial. When entering a Maori community you are greeted with a song and a hongi (gentle touch of the nose and forehead). At this point, the chief allows you to enter. A Maori Hangi (feast) involves a meal cooked in an earthen oven. It is created by burning timber which heats a layer of rocks. On top of the rocks, a layer of leaves is placed, then water, then the food. Finally, the oven is covered with a layer of soil and the food cooks by a steaming process that tenderizes it for the Maori community to enjoy. I could not resist the indulgence of a wine tour, which is how I spent my last day. New Zealand is recognized as one of the world’s finest producers of wine. I made my way to three wineries, which were all family-owned and operated. I took an extensive tour of the winery to learn how the wine is produced which always ended with a tasting at the end. There was ample time to ask questions and learn about the many varieties of wine. It was a step in earning my personal “wino degree.” It was also the perfect way to round out my stay in New Zealand. Once again, I found myself sad to board the ship and leave behind another wonderful place. However, the idea of Fiji calling in the distance made disembarkation a bit easier.
